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Affluent Page Presents: Bulgari 125 Years

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A glimpse into the Italian jewelry empire’s journey.

By Ariel Jastromb

Global jewelry houses seek prowess, prestige, and a dedicated following, utilizing signature styles and top-quality stones, settings, and designs. Bulgari shines in their masterly dedication to all of the above. Known for outstanding gem quality and daring pieces, Bulgari stands apart from other European houses working in the French tradition. Sotirio Bulgari,the house’s Greek founder and silversmith, has decided to forgo the subtleties of French composition, favoring the bold Greco-Roman aesthetic.

Bulgari celebrates its legacy at the Grand Palais in Paris for the exhibit Bulgari: 125 Ans de Magnificence Italienne beginning December 10-it’s clearly time to take a look at the house’s greatest hits. From its founding in 1884 to the current collection, the house’s journey of distinction, brilliance, and class deserves the spotlight of attention and appreciation that this exhibit will shine upon it.

During its first 26 years, Bulgari consisted mainly of intricate silverwork completed by Sotirio Bulgari himself. The firstBulgari store in Rome, where the flagship still stands, offered pieces such as bracelets, necklaces, and elaborate objets d’art. The Greco-Roman coin is and still remains a key symbol of Bulgari and was widely incorporated into the earliercollections.

The company forged into the 1920s and ’30s with Sotirio’s sons, Giorgio and Costantino, at the helm. Bulgari’s treasuresbegan to feature Art Deco designs with architectural lines, gold and bright-colored gemstones. Many of their works havenever been seen, including a platinum-and-diamond brooch from 1928 that depicted a gorgeous flower encircled by aring. One could conceive the ring as an extension of the coin motif, growing ever more abstract with each decade, onlyto revert to the original later on. Subtle chandelier earrings and bejeweled cuffs emblazoned with rubies and sapphiresexemplified and introduced the character of the Bulgari woman-a bold, courageous woman proud of her femininityand willing to indulge her desire for opulence. “Bulgari’s women” included such stars as Ingrid Bergman, Sophia Loren, Anna Magnani, and Gina Lollobrigida-not to mention Elizabeth Taylor, a longtime collector. Bulgari’s connection with the film industry began in the 1940s, reaching into the ’50s and ’60s, captivating these beautiful women along the way. One highlight from the time period is the Parure collection (formed by a necklace, bracelet, pendant earrings, and a ring), done in platinum with the finest turquoise and diamonds. Another would be the Tremblant collection of flowery brooches, inspired by the French trend prevalent in jewelry at the time.

The ’50s also saw the rise of Bulgari’s use of cabochons, shaped and polished gemstones as opposed to the moretraditional faceted ones. Cabochons carry striking color and size, matching the intensity of Bulgari’s aesthetic. The cabochons incited a revolution of color at the house, complementing the Pop movement of the ’60s and ’70s. Veruschka and Marisa Berenson, top models at the time, defined the face of this bolder, badder Bulgari woman. A gold collar necklace from 1979 exemplifies the power of the cabochon, with deep rubies surrounded by sapphires, diamonds, and rare lapis lazuli. It was accompanied by dramatic pendant earrings in platinum and gold, circa 1966, which feature carved jade with rubies and sapphires.

The explosion of color inspired loyal clients and collectors, particularly Elizabeth Taylor. The timeline of her tempestuous relationship with Richard Burton could be marked by her collection of Bulgari treasures, including the 18-carat emerald brooch Burton gave to Taylor for their engagement in 1962. Matching Colombian drop-emerald earrings, a bracelet, necklace and an enormous ring are some of the finest Bulgari ever created. Deep forest-green emeralds surrounded by multitudes of diamonds became synonymous with Bulgari-the house that satisfied Taylor’s lavish tastes. Another Taylor treasure is a 1961 yellow-gold watch shaped like a snake, witha head and tail crafted from diamonds and striking emerald eyes. Taylor was seen wearing the piece on the set of 1962′s Cleopatra in Rome. Perhaps one of Bulgari’s most stunning feats, the 25 carats of sugarloaf sapphire cabochons and diamonds from 1971 once resided on Taylor’s delicate finger.

Some of Bulgari’s most famous jewels are remembered for their iconic status and themes, like the coin jewelry, the serpent motif, and the BVLGARI logo consumers recognize today. The famous Grimaldi family owns a variety of these signature pieces, including a heavy, gold chain-link necklace decorated with a large coin that once belonged to Grace Kelly. Former Harper’s Bazaar and Vogue editor Diana Vreeland owned a stunning serpent belt made in 1970, fashioned from gold with white, pink and beige enamel and arresting sapphire eyes. The serpent found itself reimagined in colors like cobalt blue with diamond eyes and a forked tongue plunging from the serpent’s throat.

In the 1970s, the house introduced courageous pop-inspired pieces, which allowed the brand to expand and experiment. The quality never wavered, but designs, like a brooch with a heart, club, spade and diamond, or a large Buddha pendant on a necklace, were injected with humor. One platinum flower brooch, circa 1968, showcased both colorless and vibrantcolored diamonds, which became increasingly popular.

These design achievements cemented Bulgari’s status as the go-to jeweler for movers and shakers in all industries. The ’80s and ’90s saw Nancy Reagan in Bulgari’s creations, as well as society mavens of all types. Bulgari’s Kilim bracelet, circa 1988, weighs in at 22.23 carats and features three sugarloaf cabochon emeralds, amethysts, rubies, cultured pearls and diamonds-the ultimate in luxury. The brand has also appealed to men with its timepieces, watches and, for example, a gold table clock, with onyx, mother-of-pearl, jade, and diamonds, circa 1980. This objet d’art is decorated with two traditional 19th-century Chinese buckles carved in two-color jadeite-probably remnants of Bulgari’s former stock of fine Chinese jade objects.

Bulgari’s mass appeal to those with impeccable taste continues to this day, extending to its latest offerings. This collection combinesBulgari’s rich history with modern sensibilities, reflecting the boldness of Elizabeth Taylor and the subtlety of Grace Kelly in an astonishing display of color, design, and beauty. The absolutely breathtaking pieces include cocktail rings, most notably a whitegoldconfection with a 19.27-carat, color-changing, sugarloaf sapphire; 2.12 carats of 24 buff-top rubies; four cabochon-cut turquoises; and 2.30 carats of four brilliant round diamonds and pav-set diamonds that flank the sides of the ring. Those looking for Elizabeth Taylor-inspired flare will be more than satisfied by a dazzling necklace in yellow gold with seven cushioncut sapphires weighing in at 34.93 carats, three cabochon-cut emeralds at 34.75 carats; 15.12 carats of 14 emerald beads; 11.18 carats of 23 round brilliant diamonds; and 10.32 carats of round brilliant-cut and pav diamonds. Remarkable yellow-gold post earrings that look like lotus blossoms feature two yellow sapphires totaling 18.17 carats, onyx, and turquoise inserts; and 1.35 carats of round brilliant-cut diamonds. A Bulgari today is a piece of history. The new catalogue’s impressive collection is the next chapter in the chronicle of what makes a Bulgari a Bulgari.

Bulgari, 212.315.9000, www.bulgari.com

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